The black gold rush — why Buccellati craves caviar
The Times
Felix Bischof
The black gold rush — why Buccellati craves caviar
The luxury foodstuff isn't just a source of inspiration for the maison — now it has opened its own caviar bar in Milan
Muse bracelet in yellow gold; Muse pendant in yellow and white gold; an image from the Muse campaign
Felix Bischof
Friday October 16 2026, 11.00pm
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'I
love caviar,” says Maria Cristina Buccellati, on a call from her office in Milan. “I think most people do.” At Buccellati, the Italian luxury maison that her paternal grandfather, Mario Buccellati, founded in 1919, caviar has become something of a creative leitmotif. Mario was a master goldsmith whose expertise lay in making precious metals appear other, as delicately spun Venetian lace or soft to the touch Renaissance fabrics.
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Material wizardry ran in the Buccellati family and in 1981, the business unveiled its Cratere delle Muse, a decorative cup realised in silver, gold, jade and sapphires that was dreamt up by Gianmaria Buccellati, one of the founder's three sons and Maria Christina's father. The cup (the name translates as “crater of muses”) is today housed in the non-profit Fondazione Gianmaria Buccellati. Dusted in sapphire cabochons, the design would inspire Buccellati's Caviar collection. Part of the brand's tabletop offering, it centres on pieces — plates, ice buckets and Murano flutes among them — cast from silver and detailed with silver spheres, which are each crafted by hand and recall servings of sturgeon roe.
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Muse pendant in yellow and white gold with diamonds,
£12,000
Muse bracelet in yellow gold with tsavorites,
POA
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Next came the Muse collection. “I love colours,” says Buccellati. “It's lively, it's easy to wear, it's elegant.” Fashioned from white and yellow gold, Muse pendants, drop earrings, rings and two variations of bracelet are set with caviar-like mounds of tsavorites, rubies and sapphires.
Muse Ring in yellow and white gold,
£17,500
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Inspiration
But back to actual caviar. Such is Buccellati's love for it that she has been visiting a caviar farm in the Tormo River National Park, a short drive away from Milan. Italy ranks among the leading producers of caviar globally, an industry that thrives along riverbanks, making use of nutrient-rich spring waters. It was here that Buccellati “came across this amazing guy who decided to breed sturgeons around 20 years ago”, she recounts of meeting Matteo Giovanni of the Salmo Pan farm. They had an idea to collaborate on a project, a notion made concrete at this year's Milan Design Week. Adjacent to its HQ, the brand invited guests to a space on Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa that had been turned into a deep sea-inspired immersive installation with the help of Federica Sala, a curator and design adviser, artist Luke Edward Hall and Balich Wonder Studio, specialists in live entertainment. Caviar was served, of course.
Caviar collection including tridacna shell in silver,
£2,300
; caviar holder in silver,
£4,100
; caviar spoon in silver,
£270
The Caviar Bar in Milan
A few months on, and now Buccellati has just opened its very first Caviar Bar. Located at its boutique on Milan's Via Montenapoleone, the new space is laid out across two levels and looks out onto the courtyard of the neoclassical Palazzo Gavazzi. The Caviar Bar's interiors are the work of Chahan Minassian, a Paris-based designer. Cue richly patterned Fortuny fabrics, velvets, custom-made rugs and mirrored panels. There are Murano glass chandeliers and, throughout, Buccellati creations. It's designed to host clients and invited friends. “The idea is to let guests have a different shopping experience,” says Buccellati.
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Were we to be invited to Buccellati's for dinner this evening, what caviar dish might she serve? “I love cooking,” Buccellati says. “I started making spaghetti with caviar. It's super-nice. Butter, chives and caviar. As simple as that. And lemon!”
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