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The Times LUXX cartoon: October 26, 2026
The Times LUXX cartoon: October 26, 2026 The Times Kyle Bravo cartoon The Times LUXX cartoon: October 26, 2026 new kyle bravo Kyle Bravo Monday October 26 2026, 4.00am GMT , The Times Listen 0:00 / · 0:27 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Puzzles Challenge yourself with today's puzzles. Kyle Bravo is an American cartoonist who lives in New Orleans. His cartoons have appeared in The New Yorker, Private Eye, The Oldie, Saturday Evening Post, Weekly Humorist and others, including Antigravity, his home town alt-monthly magazine. He can be found on Instagram at @kyle_bravo . Life & Style LUXX Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save
2026-10-26 -
Behind the scenes in the Birkin bag battles
Behind the scenes in the Birkin bag battles The Times Louisa McKenzie Behind the scenes in the Birkin bag battles new Luxury handbags have long been considered an investment; but a new generation of collectors have changed the rules of the game Jane Birkin's original, visibly used prototype, sold at Sotheby's in Paris for €8.6m Louisa McKenzie Monday October 26 2026, 4.10am GMT , The Times Listen 0:00 / · 13:46 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Puzzles Challenge yourself with today's puzzles. I nside Kiran Chhabria's wardrobe, some of the world's most valuable handbags are neither spotlit nor arranged as an Instagram-ready wall of colour. Instead the collector keeps them in ventilated cupboards in a cool room, taking them out every few weeks to air. “I use all my bags,” she tells us. “But they are not on display.” This is not a modest collection. Chhabria, a Dubai-based businesswoman, began buying Hermès in 2002 and has spent more than two decades pursuing elusive colours and discontinued designs. A Birkin in Rose Tyrien, an almost electrically bright pink, took two years to secure. Then came a Himalaya, a fringed Birkin, a vintage Teddy Kelly, a Shadow Birkin and a Kelly Doll. “There was a joke that I would never pass by a Hermès store without going into one and seeing what they had,” she says. Luxury newsletter The inside track on tech, travel, philanthropy and the hottest handbags, cars and spas. Sign up with one click You've successfully signed up to the Luxury newsletter Explore our newsletters An error occurred. Please use the link below. Luxury newsletter Explore our newsletters Welcome to the upper reaches of handbag collecting, where “having a Birkin” is merely the beginning. Serious collectors distinguish between leathers from several feet away, debate whether a Retourne Kelly should be allowed to slouch and remember colours Hermès discontinued years ago. They cultivate relationships with sales associates in several countries, monitor auctions and private dealers, and may wait years for a particular conjunction of model, size, leather, colour and hardware. Top stories 1 How Meghan has struggled in private since her very public marriage Celebrity 2 At 39, I was married to a good man. So why did I end things? Sex & Relationships 3 Marcus Wareing: Why I pulled out of working with Gordon Ramsay (again) Celebrity 4 My family are finding it difficult to talk about my cancer diagnosis Health & Fitness The numbers can be startling. Last year Jane Birkin's original , visibly used prototype sold at Sotheby's in Paris for €8.6m (£7.4m), after nine bidders fought over it for ten minutes. The buyer was the Japanese resale entrepreneur Shinsuke Sakimoto. This year an Hermès Faubourg Birkin 20 in Rouge Sellier — one of fewer than ten believed to exist — made €635,000 (£545,000) at Christie's, more than twice its low estimate and a record for the model. A white version subsequently sold in Hong Kong for HK$4.3m (more than £400,000). Jane Birkin at the 2005 Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer show during Paris Fashion Week michel dufour/WireImage Yet away from the saleroom, the Birkin is suffering a peculiar identity crisis. A recent article in New York Magazine detailed the wealthy owners who believe influencers have “killed” the It bag. A beauty writer identified only as Tanya, who owns four Birkins and 25 Hermès bags, told the magazine that she had become embarrassed to carry them because the model was now so visible on social media. The article exposed the paradox at the heart of conspicuous luxury: a handbag must be recognisable enough to be covetable, yet not so recognisable that it appears commonplace. Advertisement Kiran Chhabria has spent two decades building her handbag collection @howshespendsit The reaction from collectors on Reddit's r/TheHermesGame forum was unsparing. “If seeing others have them gives someone the ick,” wrote the user QuestionablyVerdant, “I fear you were more into the exclusivity than the house itself.” Another contributor, Aggravating_Baker557, argued that the offended owners were in love not with leather goods but with “exclusivity and gatekeeping”. Others agreed that constant appearances on Instagram and TikTok had made Birkins and Kellys feel less rare, while the growth of the resale and counterfeit markets had further punctured the illusion of scarcity. One forum member supplied a more painful market anecdote. They had considered consigning an unused Birkin 35 in Fjord leather to Sotheby's several years ago, but sentiment intervened. “Now, the resale market is too oversaturated in general,” they wrote, “so, it sits.” Top stories 1 Bank shares are booming. Here's why I won't be buying any Saving & Investing Rachel Koffsky Parker, the international head of handbags at Christie's, says that the market has transformed since the auction house began holding dedicated sales in 2012. Live auctions followed in Hong Kong in 2014 and the United States in 2015; record prices generated publicity and drew new bidders. During the pandemic, the shuttered boutiques and cancelled travel drove buyers online, while social media introduced a younger audience to vintage fashion. Hermes Quelle Idole in Rose Mexico Swift Leather and Rouge de Couer Alligator from 2022 Christie's Hermès Faubourg Birkin 20 in Rouge Sellier Christie's “Today, unlike a decade ago, luxury handbags are firmly established as a serious collecting category,” Koffsky Parker says. “While rarity, craftsmanship and condition remain significant factors, provenance has become increasingly important for collectors seeking truly exceptional pieces.” Most commented 1 Michael Carrick looks resigned to fate as United fans turn on owners Football 377 comments 2 Brazil election: Lula re-elected but Bolsonaro refuses to concede Latin America 160 comments 3 Two men killed by falling trees as Storm Boelo batters UK Weather 101 comments 4 Shabana Mahmood 'must quit if migration reforms are watered down' Politics 42 comments 5 Terrorist linked to Isis 'smuggled himself into UK on back of lorry' Crime 48 comments The distinction between a handbag and an investment, however, is becoming sharper. Exceptional Hermès pieces still dominate: Birkins and Kellys in rare sizes, materials and colours; the playful Quelle Idole and Kelly Doll Picto; and the increasingly fashionable Kelly Pochette. Early-2000s designs are being rediscovered too. The wide, slouchy Shoulder Birkin, once an eccentric footnote, is desirable to millennial collectors, while Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel runway novelties are pursued precisely because so few were made. A Chanel shopping-basket bag from the memorable spring/summer 2014 supermarket show sold at Christie's for $152,400 (£112,500) in December. A conventional bag in a fashionable colour should not be confused with a unique prototype or runway rarity. “Two handbags from the same luxury house may appear similar,” Koffsky Parker says, “but differences in condition, material, rarity or ownership history can create a substantial difference in value.” Advertisement The Chanel Shopping Basket which sold at Christie's for $152,400 in December 2025 Christie's The Hermès Birkin Sellier Faubourg “Snow” with Palladium Hardware stefano rellandini/AFP Catherine B, the Parisian vintage specialist who owned Jane Birkin's original bag for 25 years, offers a glimpse of how top collectors think. When the prototype appeared at auction in 2000, she bid remotely, keeping her face out of the saleroom and allowing rival bidders to reveal their appetite before committing herself. When she won, she later recalled to Sotheby's, it felt less as though she owned the Birkin than that “it had taken possession of me”. She went on to lend it to exhibitions at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the V&A in London, treating it as a cultural object rather than an immobilised investment. “I see handbags as traditional works of art,” she added. Jane Birkin carried a £10k bag with an air of 'Oh, this old thing' Chhabria is more sceptical about the investment language now surrounding ordinary luxury bags. For more than 20 years she bought handbags with their future value in mind and sometimes accepted pieces she did not particularly love because they were limited editions or difficult to obtain. “Social media has given women the idea that it is normal to have massive handbag collections,” she tells us. This has been helped by headlines declaring that a Birkin is a better investment than gold. “Sadly, I think this is a bubble and it will burst.” The auction results that attract attention, she points out, generally apply to pristine bags in the precise sizes and colours currently in fashion — not to every Birkin sitting in a wardrobe. Most handbag collectors prefer to remain anonymous, but they all have specific routines to better preserve their leather assets. Bags are lightly stuffed to preserve their shape, placed in breathable dust bags and separated so that leather and hardware do not rub. Direct sunlight discolours leather; heat dries it; overstuffing distorts it. Protective plastic left on hardware can trap moisture, while keys, glasses and wallets may leave permanent “press marks” in the lining. Even the padlock is a threat: specialists advise storing it separately to prevent scratches. One collector stuffs bags with acid-free tissue. Another keeps her Kelly in a glass cabinet but takes it out regularly “to use it and let it breathe”. A particularly organised owner chooses six bags each month for a three-tier rotation shelf, effectively shopping her own wardrobe. The anonymous Hermès collector known online as EL4BZ stores her bags upright in their original dust bags, joking in one interview that they resemble “sentries ready to be used”. Rosie Fortescue, formerly of Made in Chelsea and the founder of her eponymous jewellery brand, and her twin sister, Lily, founded bag-d after spending years using plastic food bags to protect the interiors of their own luxury handbags. Fortescue says lipstick and lip gloss are among the worst offenders, “They are sticky and will stain the interior of your handbag almost immediately.” Advertisement Rosie Fortescue with bag-d's Birkin 25 insert Her own anxiety began with a Vert Fizz Mini Kelly, whose exceptionally pale leather made any accident potentially ruinous. “It was a conscious purchase of investment and style together,” she says. “That's where I learnt that it wasn't a good look to be using plastic food bags in my handbags.” The company's Birkin 25 insert sold out almost immediately and remains its bestselling size. Fortescue believes this reflects the model's usefulness rather than its status as an object to be locked away. She carries her own Birkin 25 day and night. “I believe in using my belongings and enjoying my investments,” she says. “They are not just to be looked at.” The risks extend far beyond a leaking lip gloss. Matthew Ashton, a private-client insurance specialist at Stanhope , recalls a handbag collection worth more than £700,000 that was stolen in an apparently carefully planned operation. The perpetrators, he says, appeared to have spent considerable time studying the owner's daily routine and the layout of the property. The most complicated part, however, came after the theft. The handbags had not been individually declared as valuables and the wording of the insurance policy appeared to classify them as general household contents, potentially entitling the owner to full replacement. The insurer, however, argued that a collection of such scale and value should have been separately declared and settled on a different basis. More than six months of negotiation followed before the parties reached a satisfactory outcome. “If you own a significant handbag collection, it is essential that the items are properly specified on the insurance schedule,” Ashton says. “The basis of settlement should be agreed from the outset, rather than debated after a loss has occurred.” Jane Birkin's original Hermès bag sells for record €8.6 million Even establishing the correct sum can be difficult. A receipt records what a collector paid, not necessarily what it would cost to replace a rare bag. “In many cases, the retail price and the true replacement cost are very different,” Ashton tells us. “Insurers will often rely on specialist valuers who understand the luxury handbag market and can assess replacement values based on factors such as rarity, condition, provenance, materials and current market demand. However, some of the most sought-after handbags cannot simply be replaced through a retailer. Long waiting lists, restricted allocations and limited production runs mean replacement may only be possible via the secondary market, where prices can be significantly higher than the original purchase price.” Ashton therefore advises collectors to retain receipts, authenticity certificates, valuations, photographs and payment records — particularly for bags bought privately or in cash. “Without receipts, valuation certificates, photographs or evidence of payment, establishing ownership can become much more difficult,” he says. Hermès Birkin bags on display during Luxury Week at Christie's in 2021 cindy ord/Getty images There are traps outside the home too. Owners often assume that an insured handbag is covered wherever they take it, but some policies require it to remain within their close personal custody. Leaving a Birkin unattended on a restaurant chair while visiting the bathroom could, depending on the wording, lead to a theft claim being limited or rejected. Ashton also cautions collectors against displaying valuable bags online alongside information revealing their homes, routines or travel plans. Since a large collection cannot easily be placed in a conventional safe the more effective defence, he says, is usually the security of the house itself: monitored alarms, high-quality locks, CCTV and measures designed to delay an intruder's entry and escape. Advertisement For some owners, the intended destination is not auction but inheritance. After her collection of Birkins, Kellys and inherited jewellery was stolen in a 2017 burglary, the American actress and Real Housewives star Kyle Richards began rebuilding it. “I try to get four of everything for each of my daughters,” she told Vogue. Chhabria identifies a contradiction in collecting. Male collectors of watches, cars, wine or art are credited with discernment, while women collecting handbags are easily dismissed as frivolous. “What makes one seem admirable and another vapid?” she asks. Jane Birkin's battered original handbag was worth €8.6m because it was unmistakably hers jan sato/Getty images Her own response to the booming market has been to become less acquisitive. Hermès and Louis Vuitton have repeatedly returned to their archives, reviving designs that collectors had spent years hunting down. Scarcity, she discovered, can be temporary; desire is more dependable. Now she ignores the seductive suggestion that she is “lucky to be offered” something. Unless she wants to leave the shop carrying it immediately, she walks away. That may be the most valuable insider rule of all. Jane Birkin's battered original was worth €8.6m precisely because it wasn't pristine, but because she had carried it for years, covered it in stickers and charms, and made it unmistakably hers. Life & Style LUXX Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save
2026-10-26 -
A £5,200 chessboard? These are the best luxury board games
A £5,200 chessboard? These are the best luxury board games The Times Leonora Field-Foster | Georgie Smith shopping A £5,200 chessboard? These are the best luxury board games Win or lose, who cares when it looks this good? From Prada tic-tac-toe to Dior backgammon, family contests have never been so glamorous Prada's tic-tac-toe set will set you back a cool £1,470 Leonora Field-Foster and Georgie Smith Monday October 26 2026, 4.00am GMT , The Times Listen 0:00 / · 4:36 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Puzzles Challenge yourself with today's puzzles. You're either a board-game family or you're not. There is no in-between. To say mine is obsessed would be a gargantuan understatement. In our snug we have a shelf stacked right to the ceiling with games. For as long as I can remember, family tradition dictated that every Sunday after our roast dinner we would pull one out and settle in for an evening of fun and failed attempts at concealing our competitiveness. In our house, family board games are a way of life. On Christmas Day, people who don't like them don't get invited. It's as simple as that. All recommendations within this article are informed by expert editorial opinion. If you click on a link in this story we will earn affiliate revenue I have spent my whole life trying to drag friends to the dark side, where Colonel Mustard lurks in the dining room with a lead pipe and Park Lane awaits its transformation. So, I have been training in this field since the moment my chubby toddler fingers were strong enough to pick up a draughts counter, and there is no one more qualified to recommend which game you should buy. More articles we think you'll like It's fancy blanket season The finest barware for cocktails at home Our favourite luxury interior and homeware brands Luxury board games L'Objet chess set Classic kings and queens have been traded in for modern-chic mini sculptures cast in gold-tone metal. This is not just one of the best board games: it is a work of art to play and display. The 32 ornamental pieces slide across a malachite and marble board that sits atop a lacquered wood base. You don't even need to know how to play — this board should accessorise your home regardless. £5,220, L'Objet Giobagnara Rummikub set Many an evening in my childhood (and adulthood) featured a game of Rummikub. My mum and I love it. What we don't love is setting it up: cautiously extracting our decrepit 30-year-old cardboard box from the shelf, assembling the wobbly plastic racks and making do with only 75 per cent of the tiles (the others having escaped through the cracks). None of this would ever be an issue with the Giobagnara set. The box and racks are made from leather, the tiles from walnut and the pouches from suede. Unlike our battered excuse of a set, this one could become an heirloom. £2,945, Giobagnara at Abask Advertisement L'Objet x Haas Brothers noughts and crosses The key to getting non-gamers on board is to pick something simple. And what could be easier than noughts and crosses? It's a cult classic loved by all. On this mother-of-pearl board by L'Objet x Haas Brothers, colourful snakes make up the grid and the Xs and Os are sculpted in brass to resemble frogs. You turn one on its back to play a cross and on its front to play a nought. Simple enough? £1,035, L'Objet at Farfetch Prada tic-tac-toe Tic-tac-toe (aka noughts and crosses) is not just for children. It may be childlike in its simplicity but it's a crowd-pleaser for grown-ups too. Crafted from black Saffiano leather, this Prada case is a classy home for the nine branded playing pieces and the metal board on which you play. £1,470, Prada Dior backgammon One of the oldest known board games, backgammon has a highbrow reputation through its centuries-long association with the aristocracy — and Dior's backgammon set plays up to this. Made in France, the leather case is decorated with embroidered blue toile de Jouy fabric and holds two sets of 15 pieces engraved with Dior's gold-tone star, two pairs of dice, a doubling cube and two matching fabric dice shakers. There's surely no backgammon board more lavish. £3,800, Dior The Conran Shop Milos Combo game set If you can't decide which game to buy, we'd suggest buying them all. Alternatively, opt for a combo set. This elegant wooden case from the Conran Shop has five of the best board games in one. With 32 wooden chess pieces, 32 wooden counters, 16 wooden game pieces, five dice and one double cube, you can choose between chess, draughts, backgammon, ludo or snakes and ladders. Just try not to fight about it. £103, The Conran Shop at Farfetch Shop more luxury board games Smythson backgammon roll Harlequin-print Panama leather backgammon roll £575, smythson.com Advertisement Dunhill poker set Despatch poker set £6,520 , dunhill.com Pinetti battleship set Battleship set £2,984, pinetti.it Ettinger poker dice set Capra poker dice set £75, ettingerlondon.com Brunello Cucinelli mahjong set Wood, Krion and brass mahjong set £9,000, shop.brunellocucinelli.com Why trust Times Luxx Shopping? Times Luxx Shopping is brought to you by the award-winning team behind Times Luxx magazine. For nearly 20 years, our experts have curated an unrivalled selection of the best in fashion, jewellery, travel, tech, cars, design, food, drink and more. That same rigour, taste and insider industry knowledge underpins Times Luxx Shopping. Every product and experience we recommend is thoroughly researched and vetted by our team. If we love it, we think you will too Life & Style LUXX Christmas Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save
2026-10-26 -
Jeff Stelling: I slept on the floor of a rat-infested hotel in Borneo
Jeff Stelling: I slept on the floor of a rat-infested hotel in Borneo The Times York Membery my hols Jeff Stelling: I slept on the floor of a rat-infested hotel in Borneo new The broadcaster on his top city breaks, spotting grizzlies in Canada and his southeast Asian adventure in the new series of Celebrity Race Across the World Jeff Stelling had quite the experience in Borneo York Membery Monday October 26 2026, 5.00am GMT , The Sunday Times Listen 0:00 / · 6:32 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save J eff Stelling is best known for presenting Sky Sport's Gillette Soccer Saturday from 1994-2023 and Sky's live Champions League coverage from 2011-2015. Earlier in his career the 71-year-old was a sports presenter on LBC's Sportswatch , and then BBC Radio 2's weekend show Sport on 2 . He also hosted the Channel 4 quiz show Countdown from 2009-11, and has been a presenter on Talksport's breakfast show every Monday and Tuesday since 2023. The father of three grown-up children lives with his second wife, Lizzie, in Bishop's Waltham, Hampshire. It might sound like a sob story but we didn't take holidays when I was growing up in Hartlepool because money was tight. Our “holidays” were coach trips to horse-racing meetings at places like Ripon. Like most punters, Dad only mentioned his wins and kept quiet when he lost. But we're talking about tiny stakes — it was all about the days out rather than the gambling. Most commented 1 Michael Carrick looks resigned to fate as United fans turn on owners Football 377 comments 2 Brazil election: Lula re-elected but Bolsonaro refuses to concede Latin America 160 comments 3 Two men killed by falling trees as Storm Boelo batters UK Weather 101 comments 4 Shabana Mahmood 'must quit if migration reforms are watered down' Politics 42 comments 5 Terrorist linked to Isis 'smuggled himself into UK on back of lorry' Crime 48 comments My first trip abroad, aged 22, was to Ibiza with my then wife — I pushed her in the swimming pool for a joke and she was not amused. That's probably why she's now my ex-wife. I've travelled a lot as a sports reporter over the years, particularly during my time on LBC and later BBC Radio 2: everywhere from Brisbane for the Commonwealth Games in 1982 to Helsinki for the World Athletics Championships in 1983; and Los Angeles and Seoul for the 1984 and 1988 Summer Olympics. Travel newsletter Your weekly round-up of the best travel inspiration, guides, hotel reviews and advice from our experts. Sign up with one click You've successfully signed up to the Travel newsletter Explore our newsletters An error occurred. Please use the link below. Travel newsletter Explore our newsletters Seoul was a real eye-opener. I went out with a sports statistician one night and he said: “We're going on the subway and we'll stop at the seventh stop, wherever that may be, for something to eat.” We got to one place with 20 pairs of shoes lined up outside and, lo and behold, it was a restaurant. They treated us like kings, but I wasn't a big fan of kimchi. Advertisement Closer to home I enjoyed covering football matches in Barcelona , because the weather was usually good and the food, such as salt-baked fish, was sensational. The view from Park Guell in Barcelona Getty images I also liked Berlin because there was so much to do and see, like the remains of the Berlin Wall and old East Berlin. I always tried to spend an extra day wherever I was visiting, so I could explore a bit. Top stories 1 How Meghan has struggled in private since her very public marriage Celebrity 2 At 39, I was married to a good man. So why did I end things? Sex & Relationships 3 Marcus Wareing: Why I pulled out of working with Gordon Ramsay (again) Celebrity 4 My family are finding it difficult to talk about my cancer diagnosis Health & Fitness Top stories 1 Bank shares are booming. Here's why I won't be buying any Saving & Investing Away from work, my wife Lizzie and I love taking wildlife holidays. One memorable trip was a grizzly bear spotting tour we went on in the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia, Canada , about ten years ago. A highlight was seeing a couple of giant bears frolicking in shallow waters. I was surprised to learn that our tour guide's gun only fired foam, because of the strict national park regulations. “Does that work?” I asked [in the event of a bear attack]. “I don't know,” he replied, “I've never had to use it.” Read more Most beautiful places in Canada The best backpacking routes across southeast Asia What not to miss in Borneo My most recent trip was to southeast Asia to take part in the new series of Celebrity Race Across the World with my son, Matt, who's 26 and a teacher. Our journey started in Malaysian Borneo and we had to pass five checkpoints on two continents in a race to be the first of four two-person teams to reach our final destination, Melbourne, 4,660 miles away — though I can't say too much about where we visited or it will spoil things for viewers. Advertisement We couldn't use mobile phones or credit cards and had to survive on about £25 a day each. The physicality of the journey was tough and at 71 I was by far the oldest contestant and I struggled to run with my phenomenally heavy backpack — though admittedly I packed things like my best jeans, which I only ended up wearing once, on the flight home. Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysia getty images Our race got off to a less than ideal start in Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, so we had to fork out on a costly taxi just to stay in the game. There were plenty of ups and downs in the days ahead and I got pretty emotional at times. Things like having to shower with a pan of cold water and use a hole in the floor as a loo started to get me down. It got to the point where I was thinking: “Enough is enough — I'm going home.” But that was really just my way of expressing frustration; in my heart I had no intention of quitting. My lowest point? I had to sleep on a mattress on the floor of a rat-infested hotel room in Borneo that the owner admitted “wasn't up to western standards”. That was horrendous and I didn't get a wink all night. I also lost about a stone and a half during the race. Mind you, if you saw the size of me at the start, losing a few pounds wasn't a really problem. Advertisement But I got to visit places that I would otherwise never have gone to, and I'll never forget the hospitality and kindness of people we met on our journey. The trip also brought Matt and me closer together, although we had our moments en route. As to where next? I'm hoping to cram in a short trip with my wife to the little place we have on the Algarve next month. But when I go on my next big holiday I just want to make sure I stay in a rat-free hotel with a shower and a bath. Jeff Stelling appears in the latest series of Celebrity Race Across the World , which starts on Wednesday, October 28, at 8pm, on BBC1 and iPlayer Inspired? Our in-house agency Times Holidays can help you book your own, fully customisable trips Travel Inspiration Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Promoted Content Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-26 -
This is the UK's most exciting city for food — here's how to do it
This is the UK's most exciting city for food — here's how to do it The Times Huw Oliver, Audience Editor, Travel 48 hours This is the UK's most exciting city for food — here's how to do it Swish hotels, new cultural hubs and fine dining worth travelling for — pack your parkas and get ready to go mad for it in Manchester Manchester's skyline is constantly evolving Alamy Huw Oliver , Audience Editor, Travel Monday October 26 2026, 5.00am GMT , The Sunday Times Listen 0:00 / · 10:35 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save M uch is said about Manchester — good and bad. The skyline is unrecognisable and full of skyscrapers. Decent with a guitar, them Mancunians — perhaps Westside Cowboy are the next Oasis? Uh-oh, looks like the footy teams are in trouble. A couple of days in the city is enough to collect your own set of (less told) tales. You might clock that the building boom which took place before and during Andy Burnham's mayoralty has given Manchester big new cultural venues — from Co-op Live to Aviva Studios and New Century — and a trio of swish hotels (Mollie's, Treehouse, Soho House) as well as the soulless apartment blocks. Another observation could be that, somehow, despite industry trends and all that development, grassroots live-music institutions in the Northern Quarter are thriving. And glimpses of history in former warehouses, disused railway infrastructure and neo-gothic architecture make for an excellent yarn too. A story often repeated about Manchester is that its food scene isn't ambitious enough — not true. Since high-end Mana and the small-plates spot Erst landed in Ancoats, a wave of chef-entrepreneurs have moved in and put the city centre on critics' radars. Tom Barnes's tasting-menu restaurant Skof, for example, is serving the most exciting little bits of food in Britain. Pass it on. 48 hours in Manchester — at a glance Day one Morning John Rylands Library Lunch The Sparrows Afternoon Manchester Jewish Museum Drink at Stray Evening Aviva Studios Dinner Skof Day two Morning Castlefield Viaduct Lunch Higher Ground Afternoon People's History Museum Drink at Bar Shrimp Evening Live music in the Northern Quarter Dinner Morejoy at Exhibition What to see and do John Rylands Library The John Rylands Library houses more than a million rare books and manuscripts Alamy The city's finest example of Victorian neo-gothic architecture is the cathedral-like John Rylands Library on Deansgate, housing more than a million rare books and manuscripts. The vast reading room has the hushed feel of an Oxford college library — all vaulted ceilings and nooks inhabited by students (free; library.manchester.ac.uk). Manchester Jewish Museum Manchester Jewish Museum in Cheetham Hill Alamy This little museum in Cheetham Hill, 15 minutes' walk north from Victoria station, comprises the green-painted Spanish-Portuguese Sephardi synagogue and a modern gallery next door. It tells the story of Jews who moved to Manchester from the mid-18th century through photographs, recordings and objects. Slazenger and Marks (of Marks & Spencer) are among familiar names that crop up (£10; manchesterjewishmuseum.com). Advertisement Aviva Studios An opera inspired by Einstein; a contemporary-dance interpretation of Russell T Davies's TV series It's a Sin ; big alternative bands from Ezra Collective to Tindersticks — the programme of forthcoming events at the enormous Aviva Studios arts space in Castlefield certainly has range. Even if you're not seeing a show, the foyer and deckchairs outside are perfect for people-watching over a beer (prices vary; factoryinternational.org). Castlefield Viaduct Castlefield Viaduct in Deansgate is very soothing Alamy There's something very soothing about this National Trust-managed, High Line-style walkway on an abandoned railway viaduct. Steel beams frame distant skyscrapers; ferns and grasses conjure even more distant meadows. You can walk all the way along it in five minutes, but the views offer a great excuse to linger (free; nationaltrust.org.uk). People's History Museum The People's History Museum is dedicated to the history of workers' rights Alamy This small, central museum on the River Irwell is dedicated to the history of workers' rights and democracy in the UK. It has a splendid collection of trade-union banners, a moving display on the 1819 Peterloo Massacre and the navy jacket worn by Burnham when he made a speech as Manchester mayor arguing for more government support for the city during Covid, cementing his reputation as “King of the North” (free; phm.org.uk). Live music in the Northern Quarter Manchester and music go hand in hand, so wade into a mosh pit (or linger safely on the sidelines) at a venue in the Northern Quarter. Night & Day is a chip shop turned indie institution that hosted early shows from the Arctic Monkeys and the 1975 (prices vary; nightnday.org), while Band on the Wall has a Womad-inflected programme of jazz fusion, funk and bossa nova (prices vary; bandonthewall.org). Where to eat and drink The Sparrows Who doesn't like dumplings? That's the thinking behind the Sparrows, a restaurant in a railway arch five minutes' walk from Victoria station where you'll find them in the form of spätzle (German lumps of dough served like pasta), pelmeni (meat-filled Russian parcels) and pierogi (their more sizeable Polish siblings). Veggie? Try the cottage cheese and potato pierogi, accompanied by a glass of Polish chardonnay (mains from £11; thesparrows.me). Advertisement Stray In a discreet corner of the Mackie Mayor food hall, which occupies a Victorian former meat market in the Northern Quarter, Stray is the city's most fun cocktail bar. Traditionalists beware: negronis come with scoops of ice cream, bellinis resemble frothy half-pints and glacé cherries feature heavily. The tomato vine margarita — tart and salty with a cherry tomato plopped inside — is at once silly and sophisticated (cocktails from £11; straybar.co). Skof Skof has a 16-course tasting menu Cristian Barnett How to sum up the 16-course tasting menu at Skof, one of the most exhilarating British fine-dining restaurants, near Victoria station? Let's just say that even the palate-cleanser — fermented brown rice sorbet with milk oolong tea oil — is worth raving about. Mixed pairings ranging from sour beers to gooseberry juice infused with tarragon are the way to go if you want to avoid a vicious hangover (tasting menus from £130; skofmanchester.co.uk). Higher Ground Higher Ground has a brilliant-value tasting menu RICHARD CARROLL Lunch at Higher Ground, near Piccadilly station, feels like a super-posh picnic. A map on the back of the brilliant-value tasting menu shows where the ingredients are sourced, many from the restaurant's Cinderwood farm in Cheshire. Expect hearty, nourishing combinations such as cured pork shoulder with radishes and whipped scallop roe (five-course tasting menu from £40; highergroundmcr.co.uk). Read more I'm a Manchester pub regular and these are the best six More great restaurants in Manchester My Manchester weekender, Soho House style Bar Shrimp The world should have more cocktail-and-seafood bars. Bar Shrimp, next to Higher Ground (and run by the same team) is leading the way. Drinks are sweet and fruity — don't miss the Lancaster, with vodka, tayberry, beetroot and lemon — and snacks range from scallop tartare to devilled eggs with brown crab. It's on New York Street, which is apt, as it feels very NYC (cocktails from £12; barshrimpmcr.co.uk). Morejoy at Exhibition A mini-food hall with three kitchens just off Deansgate, Exhibition is home to Morejoy, which dishes up fiery, smoky shaokao (Chinese barbecue). The duck heart and Yorkshire lamb leg skewers are fantastic night-out fuel; in fact, you could make a decent evening of it here, with DJs playing most nights. As its name suggests, the Sureshot Milson pale ale is a guaranteed hit (sharing plates from £6; exhibitionmcr.co.uk). Advertisement All recommendations within this article are informed by independent expert editorial opinion. This article contains affiliate links and links to our in-house travel agency, Times Holidays, all of which will earn us revenue. Where to stay Mollie's Mollie's has 128 rooms Fun, affordable motel At the first city-centre opening from the Mollie's motel brand, they know what you really want. Even standard doubles at this 128-roomer, in the former Granada Studios building in Castlefield, come with luxuries such as Dyson hairdryers, comfy Hypnos beds and Cowshed toiletries. Treat yourself to a suite, which start from £213 room only, and you'll get a Peloton exercise bike — entertaining, even if it's not normally your thing. At breakfast in Mollie's Diner downstairs the fun vibe extends to American-style dishes such as French toast with Oreo and coffee butter — arrive hungry (room-only doubles from £104). The Midland The Midland's art deco-style bar Landmark hotel in the city centre This imposing Edwardian baroque building was built by Midland Railway Co next to what was then the central train station. It retains the feel of a posh railway hotel, from the vast atrium to the art deco-style bar. The food is no doubt better these days, especially at Adam Reid at the French, where 11 courses with pairings explore the terroir of northwest England (from £215). Rooms are spacious and comfy if a little beige, but — given that it's 15 minutes' walk from Piccadilly — it's great value (room-only doubles from £127). Treehouse Hotel Treehouse Hotel has an arboreal theme Cool stay with next-level dining Central Manchester is full of personality-free hotels that cater to those simply needing somewhere to crash for the night; the Treehouse very much isn't that. Not everyone will take to its arboreal theme — spanning bird boxes, cuckoo clocks and tree-stump tables — but it certainly adds character to this 1970s brutalist block. The quilts and curtains contribute ample colour too. The food is the main draw: Pip, on the ground floor, does a mean Sunday roast; Sister Moon, on the 14th, serves southeast Asian-inspired seafood dishes with skyline views (room-only doubles from £184). Getting there and around Manchester has direct train links with most UK cities (two hours from London; about three from Bristol and Edinburgh). The city centre, including all sites mentioned here, is easily navigable on foot, though the Bee Network of trams and buses is reliable and affordable — tap your card to pay (single bus journeys from £2, tram rides from £1.40; tfgm.com). Advertisement Visit responsibly Make it a twin-city break with Liverpool, half an hour away by rail. Its two cathedrals — Liverpool Cathedral, a red-sandstone gothic behemoth (liverpoolcathedral.org.uk), and Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral, a spaceship-like modernist masterpiece (liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk) — are an ideal (free) day out. Stay overnight at the grand, central Municipal Hotel & Spa, whose soaring clock tower you cannot miss (room-only doubles from £114; mgallery.accor.com). Huw Oliver was a guest of the Manchester tourist board ( marketingmanchester.com ). Take the train to Manchester Top stories 1 How Meghan has struggled in private since her very public marriage Celebrity 2 At 39, I was married to a good man. So why did I end things? Sex & Relationships 3 Marcus Wareing: Why I pulled out of working with Gordon Ramsay (again) Celebrity 4 My family are finding it difficult to talk about my cancer diagnosis Health & Fitness Top stories 1 Bank shares are booming. Here's why I won't be buying any Saving & Investing Inspired? Our in-house agency Times Holidays can help you book your own, fully customisable trips Travel Destinations UK England Manchester Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Promoted Content Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-26 -
What's it like to live at Sandringham?
What's it like to live at Sandringham? The Times Siddharth Deshmukh What's it like to live at Sandringham? new The refurbished water tower on the royal estate provides stories — and steps — aplenty From the top of the Sandringham Water Tower, 'Norfolk explodes around you' Siddharth Deshmukh Monday October 26 2026, 3.55am GMT , The Times Listen 0:00 / · 7:02 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Puzzles Challenge yourself with today's puzzles. T here was an alarm going off when my daughter Avni and I arrived at the Sandringham Water Tower. It was dark. The windows glowed yellow against the Norfolk night and the tower loomed above us, looking both welcoming and vaguely haunted. I had, perhaps unwisely, been reading Sandringham's ghost stories on the way there. Apparently they had been expecting me. The alarm was swiftly silenced by the housekeeper, one of several extraordinarily kind and cheerful people I met on the estate, and we went inside. Most commented 1 Michael Carrick looks resigned to fate as United fans turn on owners Football 377 comments 2 Brazil election: Lula re-elected but Bolsonaro refuses to concede Latin America 153 comments 3 Two men killed by falling trees as Storm Boelo batters UK Weather 98 comments 4 Shabana Mahmood 'must quit if migration reforms are watered down' Politics 42 comments 5 Terrorist linked to Isis 'smuggled himself into UK on back of lorry' Crime 48 comments I had come to Sandringham with a fairly simple question. What does royalty look like when it goes home? Luxury newsletter The inside track on tech, travel, philanthropy and the hottest handbags, cars and spas. Sign up with one click You've successfully signed up to the Luxury newsletter Explore our newsletters An error occurred. Please use the link below. Luxury newsletter Explore our newsletters The Water Tower seemed an eccentric place to start looking. Built in 1877 and designed by the Victorian engineer James Mansergh, it once supplied fresh water to Sandringham House and the estate. Its cast-iron tank held 32,000 gallons. Nearly 150 years later someone has looked at this magnificent piece of Victorian plumbing and thought: romantic getaway. I approve. Top stories 1 How Meghan has struggled in private since her very public marriage Celebrity 2 At 39, I was married to a good man. So why did I end things? Sex & Relationships 3 Marcus Wareing: Why I pulled out of working with Gordon Ramsay (again) Celebrity 4 My family are finding it difficult to talk about my cancer diagnosis Health & Fitness The kitchen is on the ground floor. I imagined a royal guest returning from an unsuccessful day's shooting, mournfully eating crackers smeared with Sandringham honey or chutney. The estate makes both. It also makes chocolate. Sandringham, I discovered, is less a country estate than a small country with unusually good branding. Advertisement Twenty-three steps take you to the bedroom. Here our guest changes for dinner, admires himself in a rather fine mirror and, resisting an extremely inviting bed, continues upwards. Another 26 steps. The sitting room. Here, things become stranger. Cricketers stare down from the walls. One is Frederick Spofforth, the Australian fast bowler known as “the Demon”. The others refuse to introduce themselves. I found myself wondering whether Ranji might be among them. Had Maharajah Duleep Singh ever climbed these stairs? Had somebody once sat here with a post-prandial drink discussing a disastrous innings? The tower's narrow spiral staircase Sandringham is that sort of place. Stories occasionally arrive before the facts do. There are another 76 steps from the sitting room to the top. And then Norfolk explodes around you. Top stories 1 Bank shares are booming. Here's why I won't be buying any Saving & Investing The old 32,000-gallon water tank is now a rooftop terrace. At dawn, mist lies across the fields. Sheep become small white punctuation marks in the green. Woods stretch towards the horizon beneath a sky so enormous that the land appears almost incidental. Big sky country. My daughter sat wrapped in a blanket watching the sunrise while I contemplated the peculiar journey of a Victorian water tank from royal plumbing to luxurious accommodation. I felt very small. And, strangely, rather expansive. Read more expert advice on property, interiors and home improvement Advertisement Sandringham, I soon discovered, once even had its own time. Edward VII had the estate clocks set half an hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time to provide more daylight for winter shooting. The custom survived under George V until Edward VIII finally returned Sandringham to the same temporal universe as everybody else in 1936. This tells you quite a lot about the place. Most of us rearrange our day to suit the clock. Kings, apparently, rearrange the clock. Sandringham House itself provides the other half of the story. This is King Charles's private country home rather than a Crown-owned palace, and the new Royal Country Retreat Signature Tour takes visitors beyond the familiar public rooms and into spaces previously closed to the public, including guest bedrooms, the Billiards Room and Long Library. The sitting room While staying at the Water Tower doesn't automatically come with private access to the house, guests can separately book some rather unusual ways of getting behind the scenes. The tour, limited to 15 guests, ventures into parts of Sandringham House beyond the usual visitor route; there is also a Royal Working Estate Safari and a tour of the reimagined gardens. The effect of going behind the scenes is curious. The closer you get to royalty, the more domestic it becomes. The Long Library began life as an American-style bowling alley. In 1957 Queen Elizabeth delivered the first televised Christmas broadcast from here. Both are splendid facts. But I was more intrigued to discover that guests were allowed to borrow books, with strict instructions to return them. Clearly, somebody had form. Read more of the latest royal news and analysis Advertisement Sandringham has kept changing because it remains a home rather than a museum. In 1975 more than 100 rooms in the service wing were demolished as the house was modernised, including bringing the kitchens closer to the dining room. Even royalty eventually gets tired of waiting for dinner. Outside, the formality loosens again. The gardens cover 60 acres but don't behave as though they have been ordered to. There are grander stretches nearer the house, but elsewhere trees, paths and planting are allowed some English eccentricity. In autumn they feel less landscaped than enchanted. The bedroom Yet my favourite moment of the tour was much less grand. Somewhere along the way, looking at the dining table, I stopped seeing Sandringham as a collection of historic rooms and started imagining breakfast. That stopped me. Suddenly the furniture changed. These were no longer simply very fine chairs and sofas. People had sat in them. Kings, queens, princes, friends, relations. People had read books here, played billiards, eaten breakfast, celebrated Christmas and presumably occasionally wondered what was for lunch. History is considerably more entertaining when somebody has to eat breakfast in it. The tour ends with a Sandringham gin, almost as though one is not already slightly inebriated by the accumulated stories. Read more luxury reviews, advice and insights from our experts Advertisement And that, perhaps, is Sandringham's greatest trick. It doesn't really feel like a museum. It feels inhabited. The Water Tower is self-catering, although even that can be made effortless. Guests can arrange with the property manager to have the fridge stocked before arrival, paying according to what they order. My visit included excellent brunches at the estate café and dinner at the Rose & Crown in nearby Snettisham, where Prince William stopped for a cider in 2020 as pubs prepared to reopen after the first Covid lockdown. The ground-floor kitchen Later, back at the Water Tower, I began climbing again, towards that ridiculous Norfolk sky. I had arrived wondering what royalty looked like when it went home. It turns out that kings eat breakfast. Guests borrow books. People drink gin. Somebody forgets something downstairs and presumably regrets it 23 steps later. The ordinary things remain ordinary. Sandringham simply gives them better stories. And for two nights, I had somehow climbed into one. Advertisement From £1,095 to £2,395 for a week, sleeping two, oliverstravels.com Life & Style LUXX Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save
2026-10-26 -
Ofgem must investigate whether UK's electricity grid is safe — or not
Ofgem must investigate whether UK's electricity grid is safe — or not The Times The Times View Gareth Fuller/PA The Times View Ofgem must investigate whether UK's electricity grid is safe — or not new There must be a fully transparent Ofgem investigation into alarming evidence that infrastructure is routinely struggling to function properly The Times View Monday October 26 2026, 12.01am GMT , The Times Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-26 -
Brazil's election proves the truth of spending and the state
Brazil's election proves the truth of spending and the state The Times The Times View A supporter of Flávio Bolsonaro in Porto Alegre, Brazil, before the runoff election. The son of former president Jair has been reticent about how he would bring down its debt REUTERS/Diego Vara ThE Times View Brazil's election proves the truth of spending and the state new Whoever wins of Flávio Bolsonaro or Lula, it won't change one thing: the mountainous task of restoring national fortunes will depend on private enterprise The Times View Monday October 26 2026, 12.01am GMT , The Times Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-26 -
Did Henry Pollock's arse provide selection answers for Steve Borthwick?
Did Henry Pollock's arse provide selection answers for Steve Borthwick? The Times Stuart Barnes Pollock runs into Aaron Wainwright on an afternoon when he was largely ineffectual David Rogers/Getty Images STUART BARNES Did Henry Pollock's arse provide selection answers for Steve Borthwick? new On a wet and windy day when Northampton's precocious talent drew attention to himself for wrong reasons, there was a lesson at Welford Road for England head coach Stuart Barnes Sunday October 25 2026, 8.00pm GMT , The Times Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-25 -
13 of the best places to visit in Vietnam in 2026
13 of the best places to visit in Vietnam in 2026 The Times Claire Boobbyer | Lee Cobaj, Vietnam experts Video 13 of the best places to visit in Vietnam in 2026 Hanoi and Halong Bay will top many wish lists, but go beyond the tourist trail to find crowd-free bays, idyllic rice-field retreats and the world's largest cave Luon Cave in Halong Bay Alamy Claire Boobbyer and Lee Cobaj , Vietnam experts Sunday October 25 2026, 5.00am GMT , The Times Listen 0:00 / · 18:44 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save V ietnam may have one of the oldest continuous histories of any nation on earth, but with 25 per cent of its 101 million population made up of millennials, it has a fun, youthful vibe. It's this dynamic blend of old and new that has powered the country from post-war poverty into one of the fastest growing economies in Asia — and one of the hottest (and most affordable) tourism destinations in the region. It's a short hop from my home in Hong Kong and I've visited more times than I can count, writes Lee Cobaj . I've cruised the ethereal jade waters of Halong Bay, cycled through rice fields in Ninh Binh, scrambled through otherworldly caves in Phong Nha, shopped up a storm in Hoi An, chowed down on fragrant street food in Ho Chi Minh City and tested dazzling beaches from north to south. But the country offers a lifetime of exploration and has much to be discovered outside the tourism big-hitters — from the rippling mountains of the highlands and serene island archipelagos to ancient Cham-Hindu temples that are more than a millennia old. These are the best places to visit in Vietnam. Most commented 1 El Niño is here: what is it and what will the impact be? Environment 177 comments 2 Nicola Sturgeon: Scottish arts held back by 'cringe factor' and red tape Scotland 56 comments 3 Briton drowns trying to save sons in Bahamas: 'a hero in life and death' UK 38 comments 4 Emboldened Gianni Infantino claims 'vast, vast majority' back him Football 56 comments 5 Inside the tiny organisation staving off internet meltdown Technology 24 comments All recommendations within this article are informed by independent expert editorial opinion. This article contains affiliate links and links to our in-house travel agency, Times Holidays, all of which will earn us revenue. If you only have . . . One week Hanoi, Halong Bay and Mai Chau Valley Two weeks Hanoi, Halong Bay, Mai Chau Valley, Hue, My Son, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City Three weeks Hanoi, Halong Bay, Mai Chau Valley, Ha Giang, Dalat, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Hue, My Son, Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao A tight budget Balance domestic flights with long-distance train journeys and the excellent network of hop-on, hop-off “open tickets” on air-conditioned minibuses How to book Click the “Book now” button to start organising your trip with Times Holidays, our in-house travel agency, or one of our affiliate partners 1. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Boats moored in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Getty Images Covering an area as large as Gloucestershire, Phong Nha Ke-Bang National Park is where you'll find the world's largest cave — a void so enormous that you could theoretically fly a Boeing 747 through its gargantuan chambers. It's one of more than 450 caves that have so far been discovered in the area, tunnelling through limestone mountains like Swiss cheese, some with underground rivers, beaches and endemic plant species. Away from the big Vietnamese holiday destinations, there's barely a tourist in sight and a whole world of things to do, from adventurous hikes and subterranean boat trips to swimming in rock pools. Make it happen Mainly staffed by local villagers, guests at Auko Eco-Wellness Lodges stay in stilted glamping tents linked by a floating bamboo walkway. Complimentary wellness activities include sunrise yoga, contrast therapy and 30-minute foot massages. Advertisement InsideAsia has a 13-night Adventurer's Vietnam tour, which includes three exhilarating nights in Phong Nha with cave treks. 2. Hanoi A busy intersection in the Old Quarter of Hanoi Getty Images Hanoi is noisy, traffic-choked and beautiful all at once. The thousand-year-old city of lakes, founded on a bend of the Red River, is full of history, charm, museums, shops, markets and wonderful street food. Don't miss the Old Quarter, the heart of the city, where you'll find lots of food, hotels and temples cheek-by-jowl with shops. Learn how to dodge the motorbikes while on a street-food tour or exploring the ochre-coloured French colonial villas, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature, the “Hanoi Hilton” prison museum of Hoa Lo and the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. Make it happen The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is where Graham Greene stayed in 1951 while working for Paris Match . It's the city's top address and is elegant throughout. Read our full review of Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi The Vietnam Adventure 14-day tour from Exodus starts with two full days in Hanoi with a comprehensive city tour, before moving to Halong Bay, Hue, Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City where you can see the Cu Chi tunnels, before concluding with a multi-day Mekong Delta trip. Advertisement Best hotels in Hanoi 3. Ha Giang Hmong girls in traditional clothes in Ha Giang Alamy Ha Giang is Vietnam's northernmost region, pushing up against the border with China. It's an otherworldly landscape of sugarloaf peaks, mountain passes and rice paddies carved into impossibly steep mountains. Spend time in villages where Red Dzao, Flower Hmong and other people from local ethnic minority backgrounds live, and you'll find markets and eco-stays that offer a window into a rural world of timeless traditions. Don't miss the palace of the Hmong king who raked in revenue from opium farming. En route, stop at the dazzling rice paddy region of Mu Cang Chai. Make it happen Panhou Retreat, up in the mountains, is a peaceful nature resort with bungalows dotted amid the trees, a spa, and hot springs. Inside Asia's 11-day Vietnam's Northern Soul tour is an in-depth exploration of the region taking in trekking, rice paddies, tea terraces, markets and visits to remote villages. 4. Pu Luong and Mai Chau The rice terraces of Pu Luong alamy Not too far from Hanoi are these idyllic retreats found amid neon-green rice paddies. At Pu Luong Nature Reserve, with its homestays and eco-retreats, trek past the paddies and orchards of the Muong people and cruise down a river on a traditional bamboo raft in a landscape woven with traditional water wheels. This area is home to rare Asian black bears, Owston's palm civets and endangered Delacour's langurs. Two hours north is the exceptionally beautiful Mai Chau Valley, a serene landscape of rice paddies. Advertisement Make it happen The lovely Avana Retreat was built and is staffed by local Hmong, White Thai and Black Thai people. Its beautiful thatched rooms blend with the rippling contours of rice paddies. This 11-day G Adventures tour is one of few that takes in trekking in Pu Luong as well as an overnight stay and a barbecue lunch made by local chefs. 5. Bai Tu Long Bay, Halong Bay Head to Bai Tu Long Bay to escape the crowds Alamy Boats — from junks to elegant luxury vessels — cruise through the waters of Unesco-protected Halong Bay, which is studded with thousands of craggy limestone outcrops. It's an ethereal landscape and with each turn of weather can bring dense fog or crisp blue skies. It won't matter — it's all enchanting. To make the most of it, head out on a boat for at least two nights to cruise to the outer “fortress” of towers — Bai Tu Long Bay. To the east of Halong, the area escapes the crowds of one-day and one-night boats. Make it happen Audley's 17-day Classic Vietnam tour includes two nights on the Orchid Classic boat exploring the limestone stacks and coves of the outer limits of the bay. Kuoni can arrange an overnight cruise with long-established luxury operator Bhaya Cruises, which has a sustainable ethos and a collection of beautiful boats. Advertisement 6. Hue and the DMZ A gate in the Imperial City of Hue getty images Hue was the cultural and political power base of the Nguyen emperors, Vietnam's last imperial dynasty. They built a citadel, gilded in bronze, enamel and lacquer, with gates for themselves, elephants and their minions, based on the Forbidden City of Beijing. They lived in extravagant regal splendour surrounded by concubines and eunuchs. And they fashioned their last resting places, gothic-meets-Confucius in design, landscaped with streams, statues and elaborate graves that trace the serpentine route of Hue's Perfume River. This city is often overlooked in favour of Hoi An as a central Vietnam stop, but don't miss it. The thousand-plus dishes of the imperial household are still eaten too. From here, explore the Demilitarized Zone marking the border established in 1954 between the communist north and the US-backed south. Make it happen Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort and Spa is an exquisite address just outside the historic centre of Hue. Expect garden rooms, leafy plots, a spa and a perfect oblong pool. Abercrombie & Kent's 11-day tailormade Highlights of Vietnam tour helps you get under the country's skin with two full days exploring the pagodas and palaces of Hue and the Perfume River — you can even add on dinner in one of the royal gardens. Travel newsletter Your weekly round-up of the best travel inspiration, guides, hotel reviews and advice from our experts. Sign up with one click You've successfully signed up to the Travel newsletter Explore our newsletters An error occurred. Please use the link below. Travel newsletter Explore our newsletters 7. Danang and China beach Man Thai is one of many great beaches in Danang getty images China beach, an 18-mile curve of golden sand along the sea, was made famous by thousands of American GIs who would sunbathe here for R&R during the Vietnam War. Today, it's home to some top hotel retreats, such as the Four Seasons and, hidden amid the forest of monkeys on a small peninsula, the outstanding InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula designed by the Asia-based architect Bill Bensley. But there's more — the incomparable Museum of Cham Sculpture with its beautiful carved sandstone works, the nearby Unesco-protected ruins of My Son, the spiritual capital of the Cham people, and Danang's fire-breathing Dragon Bridge. Make it happen The design master Bill Bensley has worked his magic on the glamorous InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula. Come for the cute funicular, the pool villas and the restaurant. Advertisement Explore!'s 14-day Inside Vietnam tour is one of few taking in the Cham museum, the My Son ruins and an optional visit to My Lai, site of a wartime massacre. 8. Hoi An The old town of Hoi An getty images Yes, it draws in tourists, but that's because it's gorgeous. The ancient port of Hoi An is filled with Chinese temples, large merchant houses and hundreds of tailors and craft shops. One-storey ochre-coloured homes line the small lantern-lit streets along the Unesco-protected town's Thu Bon River. Come for the atmosphere, tailor-made clothes and delicious street food including some tantalising local dishes. Nearby An Bang beach provides downtime too. Make it happen Four Seasons the Nam Hai is a sublime beachfront property. Large, gorgeous villas dot the peaceful gardens, where pools and coconut palms face the sea. Wendy Wu's 12-day Vietnam at a Glance tour ensures time spent immersed in Hoi An, meeting artisans and visiting a farming village — plus plenty left for tailoring. 9. Ninh Van Bay The beach at Ninh Van Bay GETTY IMAGES The draw here is the fantastic stays including the likes of dreamy An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, set on a sublime stretch of sand with villas tucked away between and behind huge boulders. For something less languid, the Ba Ho waterfall is just north and there are the forests of the peninsula to be explored too — look out for the rare black-shanked douc langur along the way. A quick speedboat will take you to the bustle of Nah Trang, home to the highly regarded Hybrid bar which champions local ingredients in entirely modern cocktails. Make it happen Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is a barefoot getaway with villas and their private pools perched on huge biscuit-coloured boulders facing the sea. It's boho, supremely beautiful and comes with butler service. Scott Dunn's 11-night Rare Earth, Vietnam private tour includes four nights at Ninh Van Bay and organised activities such as hiking and learning about how the incredibly rare Sunda pangolin and pygmy slow loris have been spotted in the area. 10. Dalat Sunrise at Tuyen Lam lake in Dalat Alamy Dalat is a quirky place. A former French hill station up in the pine-scented highlands with a central lake, it's ringed by attractive early 20th-century homes and villas (some hotels, some museums), markets, flower gardens and waterfalls. There's even a golf course. Today, the city is filled with bars and cute cafés, and it's a great base from which to explore a load of kooky spots including the Crazy House homestay, cactus and coffee playground Kombi Land and a dragon statue made from thousands of glass bottles. Don't miss checking out the French-built railway station. Make it happen Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa is a cute little hilltop hotel fashioned from an ochre-coloured villa. Intrepid Travel's Travel's 20-day Best of Vietnam offers plenty of time to explore Dalat, its quirky sites and coffee culture. 11. Ho Chi Minh City A street vendor in Ho Chi Minh City Alamy Ho Chi Minh is a heady city of nine million people and eight million motorbikes. It has brilliant street food, is draped in a fantastic array of fairy lights and is fuelled by a growing craft beer, spirit and cocktail scene and a thrilling, infectious energy. What two decades ago was a fairly low-rise city has now been dwarfed by an army of high rises. Don't miss exploring the streets on the back of a motorbike, visiting the top sites, and taking a trip out to the Viet Cong tunnels at Cu Chi and the fantastically decorated Cao Dai cathedral at Tay Ninh. Sampling the food and coffee goes without saying. Make it happen The Park Hyatt Saigon isn't the best-looking from the outside. Step inside, though, and it's a dazzler. Its restaurants and bars are top city addresses and the lovely pool is a boon on humid days. It's right in the heart of the city too, just behind the opera house. More great hotels in Ho Chi Minh City Riviera Travel's 16-day Vietnam and Cambodia tour includes a three night-stay in Ho Chi Minh City and ensures plenty of time to take in the sites and the food, as well as a visit to the tunnels at Cu Chi nearby. 12. Mekong Delta A fruit vendor at a floating market on the Mekong Delta getty images The liquid fingers of the Mekong River slink through southern Vietnam into the sea. Here you'll find a mostly rural way of life with floating markets, temples and churches, and market farms harvesting coconut, bananas, mangos and veg. It's not so much about specific sites but rather a dip into the region's culture — a mix of Cham, Khmer and Vietnamese, war history (the Viet Cong forest bunkers at Xeo Quyt are fascinating), wetlands and birds, and delicious food. Make it happen The prettily illuminated, French-inspired Victoria Can Tho faces the waterfront in lush grounds on the edge of Can Tho city. You can tour the waterways and floating markets of the delta using its own boats. On Wendy Wu's seven-night Mekong cruise on the eco-friendly Victoria Mekong you'll visit floating markets and local temples, meet artisans and explore wetlands. Best Mekong cruises for an unforgettable adventure Video: cruising the Mekong 13. Con Dao Visitors at the cemetery on Con Dao getty images Con Dao was once a prison island run by the French. Today, this remote island off the south coast of Vietnam is a nature paradise, internationally recognised (by Ramsar) wetland area and home to the most important location for nesting sea turtles in Vietnam. Hike, snorkel, dive, sunbathe on the beautiful beaches, visit the turtle sites, and watch the squid boats at work. Visit its museum and sites too: the cemetery of Vietnamese martyrs' graves features seats built for their ghosts. Make it happen The remote, secluded hideaway of Six Senses Con Dao is luxury escapism made manifest. The contemporary, glassy villas with private pools are right on the sugar-soft island sands; excellent food, the spa and snorkelling are on tap. Scott Dunn has a 16-night Ultimate Journey through Vietnam and Cambodia, which starts in Siem Reap and ends with three nights languishing on the beach at the exquisite Six Senses Con Dao. Additional reporting by Imogen Lepere Top stories 1 I took hallucinogenics to cure my PTSD from being an NHS paramedic Health & Fitness Top stories 1 Who is Jon Ossoff, the Democrat on everyone's lips for 2028? US politics 2 Bank shares are booming. Here's why I won't be buying any Saving & Investing 3 Ollie Chessum and Henry Pollock scuffle as Leicester take derby glory Rugby union 4 From slot machines to slot canyons — my road trip from Las Vegas to Utah US We regularly reassess and refresh this list, adding the latest advice and inspiration What's your favourite place to visit in Vietnam? Please share in the comments below Travel Destinations Asia Vietnam Hanoi What to do in Vietnam Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save
2026-10-25 -
Why Man City are still haunted by Villa — 45 years after that FA Cup final winner
Why Man City are still haunted by Villa — 45 years after that FA Cup final winner The Times Bill Edgar Villa's iconic goal won the 1981 FA Cup final replay for Tottenham against Manchester City Allsport/Getty Images BILL EDGAR Why Man City are still haunted by Villa — 45 years after that FA Cup final winner new Find out about the unusual connection between Wayne Rooney, John Terry and Conor Gallagher — plus ten was the devil's number for Chelsea on Saturday Bill Edgar Sunday October 25 2026, 9.15pm GMT , The Times Previous Article Next Article
2026-10-25 -
The secret, luxurious side of Austria's party ski resort
The secret, luxurious side of Austria's party ski resort The Times Rachel Mortimer, Deputy money editor The secret, luxurious side of Austria's party ski resort new Ischgl kicks off the season with one of the biggest celebrations in the Alps, but fascinating history and a stylish hotel will please those who aren't there to dance on tables You can ski smugglers' routes in Ischgl Andreas Vigl Rachel Mortimer , Deputy money editor Saturday October 24 2026, 5.00am BST , The Sunday Times Listen 0:00 / · 11:47 min Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save N ot so long ago, if we had visited the Austrian ski resort of Ischgl it would have been for the après scene. The town has a party reputation and hosts one of the biggest season opening celebrations in the Alps in November — this year headlined by, er, Westlife. But my husband and I are in our mid-thirties, which means hangovers are two-day events, and something has gone horribly wrong if we are not in bed, sleep masks on and mouth tape applied, by 10pm. So it wasn't Jäger shots and DJ sets that took us to Ischgl, but its history, which has been turned into a ski experience. Goods were smuggled between Ischgl, in the Austrian Tyrol region, and the duty-free village of Samnaun, across the border in Switzerland, for two centuries from 1768, when customs exemptions for Ischgl were revoked. And in the aftermath of the Second World War, smuggling became a necessity for the poverty-stricken Alpine town's farming community. The Paznaun Valley, with sweeping views of the mountains The ten-hour round trip over snowy mountains and freezing lakes was made under the cover of darkness, with goats and chickens exchanged for tobacco, coffee and nylon stockings. Customs officers, dubbed “grass sliders” by townsfolk for their poor skiing, were rarely successful in catching the perpetrators. What you need to know Where is it? In the Austrian Tyrol region, about an hour and 20 minutes' drive southwest from Innsbruck Who will love it? Party animals, practising and retired, seeking a ski resort with great infrastructure and fine dining Insider tip The last ascent to the Flimsattelbahn lift back across the border from Samnaun leaves at 3.30pm — miss this and you face a very long and expensive taxi ride back to Ischgl How to do it Our in-house agency Times Holidays can help you book your own fully customisable version of Rachel's itinerary, tailored to your specific interests Today you can ski these routes, which make up much of the 148 miles of slopes at the resort. Opened in 2016, the Smugglers' Circuits are a network of signposted pistes and checkpoints comprising bronze (25 miles), silver (26 miles) and gold (39 miles) routes in order of difficulty. Each takes between three to four hours to complete. Advertisement Maps are available at ski ticket offices in Ischgl or can be tracked on your phone using the iSki Ischgl app. Those with a competitive streak can upload their circuit, and if they visit all the checkpoints in one day and in the correct order they will be entered into a prize draw at the end of the season. The Ischgl tourist board says tracking the routes works offline so shouldn't trigger roaming costs. Ischgl has a reputation for being a party destination We skied over the Paznaun Valley, with sweeping views of the mountains, and across the border to follow an idyllic tree-lined trail into Samnaun for a spot of duty-free shopping. A few closed pistes meant that we skied the silver route, which is mostly made up of red runs. The tourist board says it is suited to accomplished skiers, although we thought this a little overcautious. Top stories 1 I took hallucinogenics to cure my PTSD from being an NHS paramedic Health & Fitness 2 The cool corner of Australia you'll want to keep to yourself Australia 3 Now's the time to lock in a pre-Christmas holiday deal — here are 12 Inspiration Top stories 1 John Healey has a rare chance to spark a middle-class wealth boom Saving & Investing You can easily navigate the cross-border routes without a guide (thanks in no small part to the refreshingly efficient signage for each run and lift), but we opted for a tour with the son of a smuggler and were glad we did, although be sure to specify your language preference when booking (£81pp; ischgl.com). Guided by Gottlieb Our guide was named Gottlieb — in his seventies but by far the smoothest and most stylish skier on the mountains, with his neckerchief and wooden poles — and he regaled us with tales of locals outwitting custom officers in the harshest winter conditions. The smuggling legacy is proudly worn in Ischgl and we gained a true sense of how deeply the practice is ingrained in its identity. Most commented 1 Quarter of homeowners would sell up to avoid mansion tax Property & Home 246 comments 2 Teachers don't want a four-day week — but they'll take more holidays Education 189 comments 3 The great unwashed: why Japanese are 'bath cancelling' Asia 53 comments 4 Airbnb hosts threaten boycott as new rules 'unacceptable' Property & Home 51 comments 5 Police say no further investigation needed into Yes Scotland's finances Scotland 22 comments “Sometimes the smugglers would be hiding in the snow from nearby customs officers only to be given away by a squawking chicken in the crate they had carried over the mountain to trade,” Gottlieb said. “They were rarely caught though — they were too fast.” Advertisement Back in town we spoke with a couple of elderly gentlemen who hadn't quite kicked the habit and still dabbled in a spot of bootlegging, hiding orders of duty-free cigarettes from Switzerland in their rucksacks for friends. These days, though, the level of success varies — border control has upped its game since the 1930s, with spot checks at the border (particularly of those with rucksacks). Everything about the ski experience in Ischgl has been designed to be convenient Andreas Vigl Ischgl used smuggling proceeds to put itself on the tourism map, building its first ski lift in 1952. Today more than two million people visit the town each year, but unlike many of other ski resorts it is not run by foreign investors or propped up by private equity. About 300 local families are shareholders in the lift company, Silvrettaseilbahn, and many of the hotels are family owned. Everything about the ski experience in Ischgl has been designed to be convenient and comfortable, and you can go all day without breaking a sweat. In fact, our only criticism is that advanced skiers will struggle to find much challenging on-piste skiing. Ski passes here are slightly more expensive than at other European resorts (from £259 for five days), but the infrastructure is top notch, with access to 76 lifts — you'll do well to find one that isn't brand new and most were armchair rides with heated seats. If you get the first cable car of the day up the mountain you can expect a slight queue (about ten minutes when we visited in February), but it is short-term pain — once at the top we skied straight onto most lifts without a wait and often had expansive pistes to ourselves. Restaurants up the mountain are clean and organised with automatic doors (welcome news for anyone in ski boots balancing a tray of drinks) and bathrooms that are spotless (even better news for women tackling a cubicle in full ski gear). Advertisement The best mountain restaurant In good weather there's no better spot for lunch than the Idalp-Panorama. We booked a table outside so we could soak up the rays on its sun-trap terrace while enjoying the mountain views with Aperols in hand. The quintessential Austrian dish of pan-fried veal escalopes with a side of cranberry jam is the most popular plate on the menu (mains from £15; ischgl.com). Read more The Alps' best party ski resort gets a grown-up glow up I've found the secret to crowd-free pistes The surprisingly affordable mountain hotel in upscale Verbier The resort's most lucrative investment has been in its snow surety. There are more than 1,000 snow cannons, which — coupled with its altitude of 1,400m (4,593ft) — help to attract visitors for the duration of its season. It's an appeal that will only grow as lower resorts struggle to compete with a changing climate. Ischgl's party reputation may precede it but you can easily avoid the many bars and clubs here if they're not your bag. Yet we felt obliged to at least dip our toe into what the resort is best known for, so stopped one afternoon at Paznauner Taja, one of the liveliest après spots on the slopes. “We have to try to embrace it,” my husband shouted as we grimaced through the techno remix of Hey Jude blaring out from the DJ hut. We lasted for one beer then happily tootled down the mountain for a much calmer drink in the wine bar at Plangger Delikatessen in town — if you're aiming to avoid enthusiastic crowds be mindful that the main street will get busy with merry revellers late in the day and into the evening. The view from the five-star Elizabeth Arthotel Stathis Bouzoukas A stylish, adults-only stay We stayed at the five-star Elizabeth Arthotel, which is celebrating its 50th year in operation. Its founders, Günther and Elisabeth Aloys, live there with their daughter, Mirjam, and her husband, Markus Pfister, who have taken the reins and preserved all the luxurious charm that made it a hit in the Seventies. Advertisement The rooms are stylish alpine affairs with comfortable beds and powerful showers (my husband's primary metric of what makes or breaks a hotel). We were especially enamoured with the on-site ski and boot hire for ultimate convenience. A white-out up the mountain usually feels like a ski day wasted, but when the weather turned during the second half of our trip we were excited to get back to the Elizabeth early and indulge in everything it had to offer. Spending the afternoon enjoying the panoramic mountain view from the floor-to-ceiling windows in its huge sauna and taking a dip in the infinity pool before a mega snooze wrapped in a robe on a spa bed was the perfect après for this pair of former party animals. The rooms are stylish alpine affairs with comfortable beds Stathis Bouzoukas However, it is evenings when the hotel — now adults only — really excels. Predinner drinks (an excellent G&T) in front of the fireplace in the Elizabeth's low-lit bar felt like kicking back in the lounge of an incredibly bouji friend's house, and Mirjam and Markus were there each night to make us feel a part of the family. With 40 guest rooms, we found the atmosphere intimate but never overbearing. The food at the hotel's Eliza Restaurant is fine dining at its best — some of the highest quality we have tasted, with impeccable service but in no way pretentious. You're free to dress up, but I felt right at home in a smart shirt and white trainers. Half-board guests have a five-course gourmet menu that changes each evening — the tuna tartare and Argentinian wild shrimp were among our highlights — or can pay extra for the à la carte menu. The Schatzi bar, on the ground floor, is famed for its high-octane partying and excellent pizzas, and gets lively, although we never found that it encroached on our enjoyment of the hotel. Advertisement With no hangovers to nurse, I found myself setting an early alarm and hitting the Elizabeth's well-equipped gym each morning. But the main incentive for an early rise was to spend as long as possible indulging in multiple courses of cheese, smoked salmon, freshly cut jamon and eggs from the breakfast menu and buffet before heading to the slopes. And we didn't have far to go — the hotel stands at the bottom of the Prennerhang slope, one of the runs into town, and the cable car is a stone's throw away. On our final afternoon we kicked off our ski boots and headed to Schatzi for beers, cracking open the cigars we had picked up on our duty-free run to Switzerland — a final attempt to convince ourselves that we enjoy having old-school fun, even if we did share one between us. All recommendations within this article are informed by independent expert editorial opinion. This article contains affiliate links and links to our in-house travel agency, Times Holidays, all of which will earn us revenue. Rachel Mortimer was a guest of the Ischgl tourist board ( ischgl.com ) and the Elizabeth Arthotel, which has B&B doubles from £727 (elizabeth.at). Fly to Innsbruck Travel Inspiration Ski holiday Share Share this article Email Twitter Facebook Link Save Promoted Content Previous Article Next Article
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