The shoe that's been fashionable for 60 years
The Times
Hayley Bloomingdale, Style Editor
shopping
The shoe that's been fashionable for 60 years
Roger Vivier's buckled Belle Vivier makes a persuasive case
roger vivier
Hayley Bloomingdale
, Style Editor
Friday October 16 2026, 4.00am
BST
,
The Times
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There are certain shoes that transcend trends, becoming as recognisable as the women who wear them. One of the most elegant examples is
Roger Vivier's Belle Vivier
buckled pump. With its distinctive rectangular buckle and neat, ladylike silhouette, it has been a fixture in the wardrobes of the world's best-dressed women for more than six decades. I remember my grandmother wearing the style in the Eighties; it is one I would gladly wear today. Fashion may declare a new “shoe of the season” every few months, but there is something reassuring about a design that has remained desirable since 1965.
The story begins in Paris, where the French shoemaker Roger Vivier, celebrated for his sculptural approach to footwear, introduced a design that would become a classic. In collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent, Vivier created an elegant pump with a low block heel and an oversized geometric buckle inspired by the decorative footwear of European aristocracy. The shoe debuted on the Yves Saint Laurent runway for the autumn/winter 1965 collection. Two years later, Catherine Deneuve wore the style in Luis Buñuel's
Belle de Jour
, cementing its place in fashion history and giving the Belle Vivier its name.
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Today, that unmistakable buckle remains a Roger Vivier hallmark, appearing on everything from classic pumps and slingbacks to ballet flats and loafers. Each reinterpretation nods to the original while bringing something fresh to the modern wardrobe.
roger vivier
Much of Roger Vivier's enduring appeal lies in how easily these shoes fit into everyday life. Few accessories make even the simplest outfit look quite so considered. I rely on ballet flats to elevate my daily uniform of straight-leg jeans and button-down shirts, and the
Viv in the City
suede pair takes me from the school run to a lunch meeting without a change of shoes.
Advertisement
Viv in The City Ballerinas in suede, £740
For a more polished daytime look, the house's
Viv' Rangers leather loafers
work neatly with tailored trousers and a cashmere knit, while the
Trompette pumps
, with their curved heels and buckles, look particularly chic with a pencil skirt or cropped cigarette trousers.
Viv' Rangers Loafers in leather, £1,125
Trompette Pumps in leather, £770
Come evening, the original
Belle Vivier
feels every bit as relevant as it did in the Sixties. Worn with a silk slip dress or flowy evening trousers, its buckle provides just enough decoration to keep jewellery to a minimum. These shoes may look beautiful on a shelf, but their real appeal lies in wearing them — not saving them for special occasions.
Belle Vivier Slingback Pumps in leather, £910
For anyone seeking a pair of shoes that will still look chic in twenty years' time, the Belle Vivier makes a compelling case. Having outlasted six decades of changing hemlines, heel heights and fashion whims, it is unlikely to lose its footing now.
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